PREVENTING MOLD DAMAGE

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the New York City Health Department, homeowners can minimize the risk of mold by keeping these tips in mind.

  • Fix all water leaks
  • Decrease mold growth by lowering the humidity within your house.
  • Within 24 – 48 hours of contact with water, clean and dry any damp furnishings.
  • Clean all hard surfaces with bleach and water solution and or detergent. Dry surfaces completely.
  • Add fiber glass insulation on all cold surfaces (i.e. pipes, roof, walls, and flooring) in order to prevent condensation or constant moisture.
  • Carpeting and or laminate flooring should not be installed in areas of your home which have perpetual moisture or condensation problems.
  • When remodeling your home or constructing a new home, seek building products that help minimize the potential for condensation / moisture and mold growth with products such as MemBrain, a smart vapor retarder placed inside wall cavities.
Please note that this section highlights examples of safety precautions that you can consider to help prepare yourself, others and your personal property for a disaster. Please recognize that a particular precaution may not be appropriate or effective in every circumstance. We encourage you to use your own good judgment about what is appropriate.
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Protect Your Investment – Home Maintenance

Protecting Your Investment

If you know where every nickel of your new home’s down payment came from, shouldn’t you also know where every penny will go? Buying a home will probably be the biggest investment of your lifetime. And that’s why before you sign on the dotted line, you should give the house a thorough inspection. When inspecting a house, especially an older residence, you must try to determine the extent of deterioration, how much work you can personally handle, how much it will cost to have a professional do the work, and what problems you can live with. Most of all, safety should be your major concern.

The insurance companies  shars your concern for a safer house. Our engineering department has assembled a checklist of some items the home buyer should look for when inspecting a house. Some points are major and may require consultation with a licensed professional. Others can be taken care of by a person handy with a hammer and nail.  Please take a few moments to review the following inspection and maintenance tips:

 

 

Water damage/Plumbing

  • Know where your main water shut-off valve is located and know how to turn the water off.
  • Inspect all exposed pipes for leaks.
  • Inspect ceilings and walls for water spots, peeling paint, and loose ceiling tiles for hidden leaks.
  • Check all faucets for leaks or corrosion.
  • If exposed pipes in the basement exist, make sure warm air is circulated throughout. An insulating wrap is a good alternative to treat exposed pipes in unheated areas.
  • Bleed all pipes of air.
  • Shut off and drain outside water lines before winter in locations subject to freezing.
  • Inspect the rubber connecting hoses for dishwashers and washing machines. Replace every 3-5 years or sooner if evidence of rot appears.
  • Equip your showers, sinks, and tubs with drain screens to catch the debris, hair, and bits of soap that can cause clogs and back-ups.
  • Never flush items like diapers, Q-tips, sanitary napkins, or tampons down a toilet.

 

Roof

  • Have the roof inspected for damage such as lifting of shingles, missing shingles, holes, or wear. Be careful if you need to use a ladder or climb on the roof.
  • Flat or hot asphalt roofs should be resealed every three years and professionally checked every ten years.
  • Inspect around all roof penetrations (such as flashing and chimneys).
  • Inspect and clean all gutters and down spouts.
  • Repair damaged gutters and down spouts.
  • Have excessive snow or ice build-up removed.

 

Electrical

  • Inspect exposed wiring for wear or damage. Be careful not to touch wiring.
  • Inspect the fuse or circuit breaker box for excessive wear or damage. Look for tripped breakers.
  • Label with a pen or permanent marker each circuit breaker, noting which location it serves. If you have fuses, also note the amperage.
  • Make sure appropriate fuses are being used and all sockets are filled. Do not use pennies or foil to fill the sockets.
  • Eliminate all situations where more than one electrical unit is plugged into a single outlet.
  • Check electrical units for overheating.
  • Major appliances should be plugged into appropriate outlets.
  • Do not place floor coverings (e.g., carpeting) over electrical cords.

 

Heating

  • It’s tempting to use supplemental heating devices (such as electrical or kerosene heaters) during the winter. If they must be used, keep them away from flammable materials and surfaces that can ignite from prolonged dry heat. Do not store additional fuel in the same room.
  • Have furnace/air conditioners professionally cleaned and serviced annually (including the filter).
  • Inspect underground fuel tanks.
  • Hire a certified chimney sweep to inspect and clean creosote build-up in chimney.

 

General security

  • All exterior doors should have deadbolt locks.
  • Do not leave personal property (such as lawnmowers, bikes or grills) unsecured outdoors.
  • A heat and smoke detector should be on every floor. It’s recommended that detectors be powered by an electrical source with a battery back up.
  • Check heat and smoke detector batteries every 3 months. Test heat and smoke detectors when checking the battery.
  • A fire extinguisher should be located in the kitchen and near the furnace. Household members should be taught to use a fire extinguisher.
  • Motion sensitive outdoor lighting is suggested for added safety and security. If it’s affordable, central station burglar and fire alarms are another security alternative.
  • Neighborhood watch groups are also suggested.
  • Do not hide a spare key outside your premises.

 

Liability

  • Keep walkways, stairs and sidewalk free of obstacles.
  • Shovel snow as soon as possible and use salt/sand substances to reduce ice formation.
  • Keep stairs, porches, stoops and their rails in good repair.
  • Maintain and use outdoor lighting.

If you own a dog, you should enroll it in Canine Good Citizenship classes offered by the American Kennel Club. The dog does not have to be a pedigree to attend.

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Insuring Your Home to Value

Market Value vs. Reconstruction Cost
Because the cost to rebuild is often much higher than what you paid for your home, we do not rely on market value to determine what level of coverage you need. There are many variables that affect reconstruction cost as well as market value, so the only way to ensure your home is protected is to provide accurate, up-to-date information to your agent. Market value is affected by the local housing market in your area, housing shortages, the number of new homes being built near you, and your location. Market values fluctuate constantly and are not a reliable source for replacement costs. For example, the average home sales price increased by 73.76% in Phoenixville, PA, while the average home sales price in Waldport, OR decreased by 35.4% during the same period.

Reconstruction cost is independent of market value, and is affected by things like the expense and availability of labor and materials, fuel costs, special characteristics within the home and even how easy it is to access the house site. Because of these factors, the reconstruction cost of your home may be much higher or lower than the current
market value.
The Reconstruction Valuation Process
When you buy your policy through your independent agent, he or she will take the time to collect information about your home’s characteristics, including any custom or vintage features, total living space, building materials and other important details that helps us understand what is being insured – and what might need to be rebuilt in the event of a loss. This information is used to calculate the cost to rebuild a home based on its unique characteristics. Your
agent then obtains a quote for your policy premium based on this information.
Reconstruction Appraisals – A Higher Level of Service
Certain homes may fall outside the “normal” valuation models, and in these cases, Insurance Companies contract  with
professional reconstruction appraisers who will come to your property to perform an exterior and, in some cases, an interior reconstruction appraisal. This additional level of service helps ensure that your agent has captured all of the pertinent information we’ll need to provide you with the right level of coverage. These appraisals are a critical part of insuring your home to its reconstruction value, especially when you have unique, custom or unusual home features that may not fall into a standard valuation calculator.
What to Expect
Once you purchase your homeowners policy, most carriers do an exterior inspection. Because this is an exterior inspection, you do not need to be home to meet the appraiser. If your home requires an interior inspection, you’ll be
contacted by phone to schedule a time that is convenient for both you and our appraisal company. You will need to be present for this visit, because the reconstruction appraiser will be examining the interior of your home. The appraiser will spend approximately 90 minutes in your home carefully examining construction features, finishes, square footage and other information that will provide an accurate reconstruction cost estimate.
After the Inspection
Once the Insurance company receives the inspection report, they’ll determine whether the initial coverage estimate is still accurate, or if it needs to be increased or decreased. If changes need to be made, the company will  contact your agent who can then go over the details with you, including how your premium may be affected.

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How to Prevent Kitchen Fires

Cooking – A Watched Pot Never Burns
Cooking is the leading cause of home fires and fire injuries, with stove fires dominating this problem. Most cooking fires are caused by people’s behavior, not appliance failures. A majority of these fires happen when people leave food cooking unattended on the stovetop. Other common mistakes include leaving burners or ovens on after cooking, leaving combustibles such as potholders too close to heat sources, and wearing loose-fitting sleeves near hot burners.
Older adults are more likely to be injured in cooking fires than adults aged 18 to 64.
Fortunately, you can reduce the risk of cooking fires with these simple precautions.

Stove and Oven Safety
• Keep an eye on all food being heated.
• Wear short or tight-fitting sleeves when cooking and avoid reaching over burners or hot surfaces.
• When using an electric stove, use a burner that is the right size for the pan. Using a burner that is too large can cause the pan and its contents to heat too quickly, which can lead to boil-overs, scorching and burning.
• When using a gas stove, keep the flame entirely under the pan. A flame that surrounds the pan can easily ignite a loose-fitting sleeve.
• Keep potholders, wooden utensils and other combustible items away from hot burners or pilot lights.
• Create a kid-free zone of three feet around the stove, and supervise older children when they cook.
• Keep the stovetop, oven and range hood free of grease and spills that can catch fire.
Grease Fires
Take extra care when frying or deep frying food or when cooking with oils, lard, butter or other grease products.
If a grease fire occurs, remember to:
• Put a lid on the pan.
• Or toss baking soda on the flames.
• Leave the house and call 911 if you can’t put out the fire quickly and safely.
Using a fire extinguisher or water to put out a grease fire in a pan could cause the hot oil to splatter, spreading the
fire instead of extinguishing it.

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Protect Your Home From Lightning and Power Surge

Dollar figures for lightning and surge losses vary widely, but the best figures available estimate at least $2 billion in electrical and electronic equipment damage yearly — making lightning and surge a leading cause of electrical equipment failure.  Surge damage occurs when the normal electrical circuit is suddenly exposed to a large dose of energy. Lightning is the most obvious surge source, but normal utility switching operations or downed power lines
can generate surge too. Inside a building, surge may come from fax machines, copiers, air conditioners, elevators, or motor pumps.  Inside or outside, only lightning strikes within one mile of a structure are likely to damage electronic or electrical equipment. A surge protection device (SPD) is the best way to prevent or reduce damage caused from electrical surges and should be installed strategically outside and throughout the home. SPD’s are designed to redirect high-current surges to the ground and bypass equipment to limit the voltage that is impressed. Two different zones of defense should be used to provide maximum protection:
The first zone is the electric meter, where the utility power comes into the home. A “whole house SPD” can be installed directly into the meter box to reduce externally generated surges, including indirect lightning strikes on the line. Installing a whole house SPD requires the service of a professional electrician, and many local utility departments will install and/or lease units monthly. A whole house SPD rating should be between 20,000 and 40,000 amps. It should use fire proof and explosion proof polycarbonate glass-fiber reinforced enclosure with a matching mounting
connector. 

The second zone of defense is inside the home because a SPD installed at the meter will not protect against internally generated surges. Appliances, such as microwaves, refrigerators, and garage door openers that have a power plug require a surge protection device that plugs into the wall. SPDs for appliances inside the home should not be rated less than 5,000 amps. Further, appliances that use two services, such as a television set with a cable wire and an electrical cord, may require a combination SPD that allows both a cable and a power connection. Computers, answering machines, satellite dish components and VCRs may also require combination protection.  Inside the home, SPD’s should be installed as close to the equipment as possible for maximum protection. Cable lengths should be as short and straight as possible to minimize the resistive path of the circuit to the ground. Also, the surge protectors should be equipped with indicators that show if the circuit is grounded and operating properly.  While nothing can prevent damage from a direct lightning strike, SPD’s can protect your valuable electronics and appliances from the most common source of damage— surge.

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Hurricane Season Brings Tornados. What to do…….

Put safety first.
Make personal safety your first priority. Listen to the local radio for up-to-date information. Stay out of damaged buildings. If you’re in an evacuated area, don’t return to your home until local authorities report that it’s safe. When you survey your home, check first for damage to gas, electric or sewage systems. Don’t use damaged systems until they’ve been checked by professionals. If gas is leaking, turn it off at the main shut-off valve, leave the building immediately and call a professional for service. Watch out for broken glass and sharp objects. If you must drive, use caution. Look out for downed wires and debris, and remember bridges and roads may be damaged.
Call to file your claim.
If you have tornado damage, report it to your insurance carrier as soon as possible. During this first call, you should be ready to provide at least a general description of your damage. A representative will talk you through your claim, recording the details. A claims professional will call you after you’ve reported your claim.  If you have serious damage, they will make every effort to get to you first.
Make temporary repairs.
If a tornado has caused damage to your property, it is your responsibility to take action to avoid further damage, once it is safe to do so. Heavy rains often accompany tornados and wind storms. The longer your home is exposed to water, the more damage you’ll see to your roof, ceiling, walls and floors— as well as any personal belongings you have inside. If you can, cover holes in the roof or broken windows with heavy-duty tarps or plywood to prevent additional water damage. Move wet items to drier ground. Wash and dry whatever you can. If you’re not sure it’s safe for you to do any of this the work, professionals can help. You’ll usually find them listed under “contractors” or “water damage restoration” in your phone directory.Make sure to save receipts from any temporary fixes as part of documenting your damage.

Review your insurance policy, so you know what’s covered.
Check your policy to see what’s covered and the deductible you’ve chosen. Reviewing your policy will help you prepare questions for your claims professional. Your insurance policy typically cover the cost to repair common tornado damage —including damage to roofs and walls, cars and your inventory or belongings. However, your deductible does apply — and you also may have a higher deductible for wind/hail damage that applies to tornados. If you can’t live in your home, your carrier will pay additional living expenses, as noted in
your policy, while damage is assessed and your home repaired or rebuilt. If, for some reason, your repairs take longer, you may be eligible for additional assistance from federal emergency programs.
Document your damage.
As soon as you can, start making a list of items that were damaged by the tornado. A good, thorough list will help us process your claim faster. Document the damage with
photos, video tapes, bills and receipts. In the meantime, don’t throw out damaged items — especially expensive ones. Your claims professional will advise you about any specific information we will need to from you to process your claim so you can get started on permanent repairs.
Schedule permanent repairs.
Most insurance carriers requires you to wait until your claims professional has assessed your damage before you begin making permanent repairs. However, we encourage you to schedule permanent repairs as soon as possible because contractors can be tough to schedule after a tornado strikes. Use a local, licensed, bonded and insured contractor, and check references.
Understand your responsibility for home improvements.
The companies will replace damaged items and materials of the same type and quality of the materials you’re replacing. For example, if you have a fiberglass roof, they will pay to
repair or replace damage with fiberglass materials — but they won’t pay to replace it with expensive slate tile. If damage is extensive, people sometimes decide to take the opportunity to upgrade their property with better or more expensive materials. Again, the companies will only pay for replacing materials of the same type and quality. If you want to pay the additional expense to upgrade, you’re certainly welcome to do that out of your personal budget. Any time you make improvements to your property, talk to your agent to make sure
you have enough insurance and to find out if you are eligible for discounts.

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Roof Features That Give Discounts

You have several choices when choosing a roof covering for your home. Most homes in the U.S. have asphalt shingles for roof coverings. Other choices include clay or concrete tile, metal panels, and slate. But which performs better during a hurricane? The answer may surprise you. All of these types of roof coverings can perform well if they are attached properly.
Whatever roof covering you choose to install, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations as a minimum
requirement. Also remember that fasteners should be long enough to penetrate the sheathing (plywood) or penetrate 3/4-inch into wood or plank decks.
Recommended Installation For:
Shingles
– Hand nailing is best for accuracy and 6 nails per shingle are preferred especially in high wind areas. It is also wise to apply a dab of roof cement under each tab.
Clay or concrete tile – Nose, butt, or side clips should be used in high wind or seismic areas. These are commonly
referred to as wind clips or storm anchors. Two screws per tile give the highest wind uplift resistance and will help the tile resist shifting.
Metal panels – Clips or cleats are preferred over exposed fasteners because they aren’t exposed to weather. They also allow the metal to expand and contract reducing the opportunity for it to buckle. Fasteners should be corrosion resistant and penetrate the sheathing.
Slate – Slate should be attached with flat head copper-wire slating nails. In high wind areas a dab of roof cement or polyurethane sealant should be applied under the exposed part and the slate then installed using 4 nails per slate.
It’s Hip to Be Hipped
Did you know that the shape of your roof can have a lot to do with how it stands up against high winds? Hipped roof systems are more likely to stay put in a hurricane than gabled roof systems. Why? Unlike gabled roofs, a hipped roof slopes upward from all sides of the building. The aerodynamic properties and construction techniques inherent in hipped roofs help them perform better in windstorms than gabled roofs. A gabled roof has two slopes that come together to form a ridge or a peak at the top – each end looks like the letter “A.” Homes with gabled roofs are more likely to suffer greater damage, such as collapse of the end wall from high winds because they are often not braced properly during construction.

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Home Maintenance Tips

Protecting Your Investment

If you know where every nickel of your new home’s down payment came from, shouldn’t you also know where every penny will go? Buying a home will probably be the biggest investment of your lifetime. And that’s why before you sign on the dotted line, you should give the house a thorough inspection. When inspecting a house, especially an older residence, you must try to determine the extent of deterioration, how much work you can personally handle, how much it will cost to have a professional do the work, and what problems you can live with. Most of all, safety should be your major concern.

We  share your concern for a safer house. Here is a checklist of some items the home buyer should look for when inspecting a house. Some points are major and may require consultation with a licensed professional. Others can be taken care of by a person handy with a hammer and nail.  Please take a few moments to review the following inspection and maintenance tips:

 

 

Water damage/Plumbing

  • Know where your main water shut-off valve is located and know how to turn the water off.
  • Inspect all exposed pipes for leaks.
  • Inspect ceilings and walls for water spots, peeling paint, and loose ceiling tiles for hidden leaks.
  • Check all faucets for leaks or corrosion.
  • If exposed pipes in the basement exist, make sure warm air is circulated throughout. An insulating wrap is a good alternative to treat exposed pipes in unheated areas.
  • Bleed all pipes of air.
  • Shut off and drain outside water lines before winter in locations subject to freezing.
  • Inspect the rubber connecting hoses for dishwashers and washing machines. Replace every 3-5 years or sooner if evidence of rot appears.
  • Equip your showers, sinks, and tubs with drain screens to catch the debris, hair, and bits of soap that can cause clogs and back-ups.
  • Never flush items like diapers, Q-tips, sanitary napkins, or tampons down a toilet.

 

Roof

  • Have the roof inspected for damage such as lifting of shingles, missing shingles, holes, or wear. Be careful if you need to use a ladder or climb on the roof.
  • Flat or hot asphalt roofs should be resealed every three years and professionally checked every ten years.
  • Inspect around all roof penetrations (such as flashing and chimneys).
  • Inspect and clean all gutters and down spouts.
  • Repair damaged gutters and down spouts.
  • Have excessive snow or ice build-up removed.

 

Electrical

  • Inspect exposed wiring for wear or damage. Be careful not to touch wiring.
  • Inspect the fuse or circuit breaker box for excessive wear or damage. Look for tripped breakers.
  • Label with a pen or permanent marker each circuit breaker, noting which location it serves. If you have fuses, also note the amperage.
  • Make sure appropriate fuses are being used and all sockets are filled. Do not use pennies or foil to fill the sockets.
  • Eliminate all situations where more than one electrical unit is plugged into a single outlet.
  • Check electrical units for overheating.
  • Major appliances should be plugged into appropriate outlets.
  • Do not place floor coverings (e.g., carpeting) over electrical cords.

 

Heating

  • It’s tempting to use supplemental heating devices (such as electrical or kerosene heaters) during the winter. If they must be used, keep them away from flammable materials and surfaces that can ignite from prolonged dry heat. Do not store additional fuel in the same room.
  • Have furnace/air conditioners professionally cleaned and serviced annually (including the filter).
  • Inspect underground fuel tanks.
  • Hire a certified chimney sweep to inspect and clean creosote build-up in chimney.

 

General security

  • All exterior doors should have deadbolt locks.
  • Do not leave personal property (such as lawnmowers, bikes or grills) unsecured outdoors.
  • A heat and smoke detector should be on every floor. It’s recommended that detectors be powered by an electrical source with a battery back up.
  • Check heat and smoke detector batteries every 3 months. Test heat and smoke detectors when checking the battery.
  • A fire extinguisher should be located in the kitchen and near the furnace. Household members should be taught to use a fire extinguisher.
  • Motion sensitive outdoor lighting is suggested for added safety and security. If it’s affordable, central station burglar and fire alarms are another security alternative.
  • Neighborhood watch groups are also suggested.
  • Do not hide a spare key outside your premises.

 

Liability

  • Keep walkways, stairs and sidewalk free of obstacles.
  • Shovel snow as soon as possible and use salt/sand substances to reduce ice formation.
  • Keep stairs, porches, stoops and their rails in good repair.
  • Maintain and use outdoor lighting.

If you own a dog, you should enroll it in Canine Good Citizenship classes offered by the American Kennel Club. The dog does not have to be a pedigree to attend.

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Homeowner’s Insurance to Value

Insurance to Value. Properly protecting your single most important asset – your home. Now that’s a big responsibility. Selecting the proper amount of coverage for your home is the single most important decision you can make with your Homeowners policy. Without it, you may not have enough coverage to rebuild after a total loss. In the industry, this process is called Insurance to Value (ITV).

What is Insurance to Value?
Insurance to value (ITV) is the amount of coverage listed under ‘Coverage A’ on your policy declarations page. It is often referred to as “Dwelling coverage” or “Coverage A – Dwelling”. It refers to the amount required to completely reconstruct your home in the unfortunate event of complete destruction.
Why is Insurance to Value different than the value of my home?
A home’s market value reflects current economic conditions, taxes, school districts, the value of the land, location, and other factors that have nothing to do with the actual cost of rebuilding a home and replacing all of its contents. With ITV, you will have the proper amount of coverage to reconstruct your home – not what it was worth on the current market.
Why is reconstruction more expensive than new construction?
New-home builders typically build many homes at once, and bid out the jobs to receive the best pricing. Their business model is based on economies of scale. For example, they may purchase 20 bathtubs at once, securing a lower unit cost. Reconstruction cost for a single home is more expensive since there are no savings when buying just one replacement bathtub.
How your agent can help.
Selecting the right ‘Coverage A’ amount is your responsibility. Sound like a big obligation? Luckily, we are here to help. We uses the industry leading underwriting tool to estimate what it would cost – including materials and labor – to rebuild your home from the ground up. Like any estimation this will not perfectly capture every specific building item in your home. You should use it as a starting point and add to it depending on your home’s specific features. Be
sure to work with your agent as they can provide you with helpful information to make the right ‘Coverage A” selection.

Follow these simple steps to help ensure your home is insured to full value.
• Work with your agent to provide detailed information at time of purchase to be sure that you receive a thorough and accurate quote.
• Ask your agent about additional coverage options that may be available in your state.
• Review your Insurance to Value calculation on a regular basis with your agent.
• Report any changes or improvements that you make to your home to your agent so that you can re-evaluate your coverage needs.

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Top 10 Flood Questions

Here are the 10 most frequently asked questions about the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP).

10. Can’t I just wait until it starts raining to buy Flood Insurance coverage?

Not if you want to be covered. Under most circumstances you’ve got to wait 30 days from the time the premium and application are received to be covered. So you can buy the coverage when it starts raining, but it won’t protect you until 30 days later. The only way to circumvent the 30-day waiting period is if your community has revised its flood map within the last year or this is your first purchase and it is required by a lending institution to close a loan.

 

9. Aren’t the NFIP limits too low to matter?

Not anymore. The 1994 improvements to the National Flood Insurance Program bumped up the limits on single family residences to $250,000 for the structure and $100,000 for the structure’s contents. Even commercial structures can be insured to a limit of $500,000 for the building and $500,000 for contents. Replacement cost coverage is available for structures on a limited basis for single-family dwellings that are primary residences.

 

8. I can’t qualify for coverage because I’m not in the flood plain. Right?

Wrong. Almost everyone in a participating community qualifies for coverage and almost every community participates in the program. Remember to set the policy limits to the full value of your structure and buy contents coverage too.

 

7. Isn’t it too tough to sign up and not worth my time since I’m in a low to moderate risk area?

Today it is even easier for people in zones coded B, C, and X to secure coverage. And more than 30% of all NFIP flood claims come from these low to moderate risk areas.

 

6. Can I finance my purchase?

Sure, Companies accept all major credit cards.

 

5. Do I have to wait until a completed elevation certificate is issued to me?

No. With provisional rating,companies can make coverage available even before an elevation certificate is complete (required on homes built after December 21, 1974 in map zones coded A or V). So you won’t need to delay closing on a loan or settlement of a property.

 

4. Is my basement covered?

NFIP policies have some coverage for basement elements: cleanup expense and items such as furnaces, water heaters, washers and dryers, air conditioners, freezers, utility connections, and pumps are included. Contents in a finished basement are excluded, as are a basement’s finished walls, floors, and ceilings.

 

3. Can’t I just hold out for federal disaster assistance.

Hardly. Federal disaster assistance is declared in less than half of all flooding incidents. Besides, the annual premium for a NFIP policy is less expensive than the interest on most federal disaster loans. The only real option is to get insured before the loss. Even if a federal grant or loan is awarded to you after a major flood, you’ll probably be required to use part of the proceeds to purchase a NFIP policy.

 

2. Can I buy NFIP coverage through The Ormond Agency?

You bet. We work with carriers that write through the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), the administrator of the NFIP so that we can make flood coverages available to our customers.

 

1. Doesn’t my homeowners policy cover floods?

NO. Most major insurance companies  do not offer flood protection as part of their homeowners coverage. Catastrophic risks created by floods are just too costly and would raise homeowners premiums too high. The NFIP is the only way for homeowners to address the risk of flood. 

 

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